I'm guessing it's a gas log firplace because it's against fire codes to have a combustible floor within 20 to 24 inches of the mouth of a firplace in most states. Although it's against my better judgment, and if it is gas logs, you could attempt to install these 2" tiles with a high end Sub Flooring Adhesive that comes in cartrige tubes. "PL 400 and higher". You could never get a professional to do this job, but a DIY can do anything he wants. If you go this route make sure the tiles don't move before grouting. Overnight should work. Your Not "TIRTGIM" but I wish you luck anyway. Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

The System was call "Edge Tiles" and was a BIG loss item for Lowe's. Too many problems to mention. It's still made and sold and you can research it on line. The principle is great but the logic in the creation of the system still leaves a lump in my throat. Many law suits, so be carefull and ask a lot of questions. With so many complaints they may have found a solution but, I seriously doubt it. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

There's a very important lesson to be learned here; always look at the entire layout before attempting to start any tile installation. Where to start and how will it end. There are two simple ways to avoid unwelcome situations like yours Measure the dimensions of a single tile, (example) 11 7/8". Add the width of one grout joint, say 1/4" which equals 12 1/8", then measure the width of your room, divide that number by the 12 1/8".               Example: Room Width 12 feet 5 1/4". For easier computations change all measurements to inches and fractions to tenths. 12 x 12 = 144, plus 5, plus .25 (1/4") = 149.25 Total Width of room in inches. Tile dimension is 11 7/8 plus one 1/4" grout joint for a total of 12 1/8" 1/8" = .125 total 12.125; Divide 149.25 by 12.125 = 12.31 Tiles across the room. Multiply .31 x 12.25 = 3.76 " size of cut against opposing wall. A balanced cut would involve dividing 3.76 in half or 1.9 of a cut on each side of the room. Not a very good look. It would be a better look if one full tile was removed from the equation. Only 11 full tiles and a cut on both sides of the installation. 11 x 12.125 = 134.75; 149.25 - 134.75 = 14.5; divide 14.5 in half and the cut tiles on each side would become 7.25", a much better look. The same formula is used for the length of the room. Make appropriate lines on the floor in both directions to referance from. Now to answer your question. Since its to late to remove all the tiles it shouldn't be too hard to remove a small section "creating a step in, or out, design" cut into the field tile of the main floor, at least the width of the slider and a minimum of 24" away from the slider, then re-install new tiles as follows: Install new tiles on a diagonal separated from the main floor by a grout joint; or, install these diagonal tiles with a narrow feature strip surrounding the diagonal tiles; short narrow strips can be made from the same tiles and installed on three sides of the design; or, create a half circle/oval design of diagonal tiles the width and depth of a half circle or half oval design in front of the slider. Need more help? Just ask. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

The best looking grout joint size is in the "Eye of the Beholder". However there are issues that you should take into consideration. If the joints are very small, 1/16" or less, and the tiles are slightly irregular in size you will wish you spaced them further apart. In joints smaller than 1/8" you must use a Non-Sanded grout because the sand in the sanded grout will "clog" the joints and leave you with "pin holes" everywhere. Non-Sanded grouts are more sensitive to the slightest movement when tiling over suspended floors and that's an issue with large thicker tiles. If the floor installation is over a Concrete Slab, you've followed all the "Rules", your tiles are precise in size, correct techniques were used to Prep, Modified Mortar and correct Trowel Choice was selected you could get away with a tight joint using Non-Sanded grout, but be aware, the tiles must not touch each other. Porcelain Floor tiles, are more than likely, at least 1/2" thick and the grount joint must be large enough for you to force grout into a narrow joint and fill the entire cavity all the way down to the bottom, too "lock in". Epoxy Grout would be something to consider. If after all this you still want the tightest joint possible I would have to "plug" one of my own tile spacers because, I have the smallest easy to use spacer in the world, 1/32". (www.tavytools.com for sources) It will help you open the joints just enough so the grout can have a place to fill and "lock in". If you would asked my opinion on what grout joint size and spacer I would use, it wouldn't be anything smaller than my, easier to use, 1/8" tile spacer with a quality sanded grout. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Although "Hardi" gets completely wet, through and through, when it's submerged in water, water doesn't seem to affect it. They distribute many post card size samples of the product in see through containers filled with water. The product is obviously thoroughly soaked but remains un-affected. So the answer is yes you can use it, providing you install the tiles with a "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar, since it's an outdoor application. Silicone caulking in minimal damp areas may cause you a problem down the line as it ages. Silicone edges tend to weaken allowing moisture laden bacteria to penetrate enough behind the edges to start mildew and mold. It should be monitored on a regular basis. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

I agree, it sounds strange indeed. I would be more than glad to comment after I see three tiles. Two tiles of the batch/size that are cracking and 1 tile from the batch/size that's not. Wrap them carefully in bubble wrap and send them to me. In addition let me know on the forum what kind of substrate the cracked tiles are over and the substrate the un-affected tiles are over. Include the Brand and model of the mortar and the trowel notch size that was used on the two diffrent size tiles, as well as the grout brand, and if it was sanded or unsanded.                    send them to: Armen Tavy 3304 Milton Place, Plant City Florida 33566. Give a shout when they're in the mail.  "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman                  

This is a new one for me as well. Let’s look at the rules, the most important of which is deflection, flexing of the floor, since a sunroom is usually limited in size compared to a large interior room that can be good. The floor joists that are 2” x 8” is not so good. Joists spacing 24” on center is also not so good. So what’s in your favor? Exterior rated plywood subfloor, 8” of hard foam filling, and a 1/2” OSB cover for the sandwich adds up to 9 ¼ inches. I doubt if that will bend/flex enough to cause you any real problems. The last issue now is the OSB and again I go to my TAVY “Thin-Skin” Underlayment. It’s guaranteed to stick to your OSB top layer and an ideal surface for Mortar to bond to. Always choose a quality Modified Mortar when tiling, especially in a Sun Room. The word “Sun Room” raises another issue and that is expansion from direct sunlight, so move up to a more expensive flexible “Mortar that requires its own Latex Liquid Additive” to set your tiles. NEVER add Latex additives to a mortar that’s already “Modified. Leave a minimum 1/4” unfilled cavity around the perimeter of the tile installation, covered by baseboards. Use the correct mortar trowel, minimum 1/4” x 3/8 x1/4”, skim coat the backs of every tile just before setting, and you should fare well. Don't forget to use my TAVY Tile Spacers and check for "Lippage" with my "Tile Puck"  “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Custom's Red Guard, Laticrete's Hydro-Ban, are two liquid coatings that can work providing you prep, (clean and scarify) the C.Marble as required. You will have to install a drain raising adapter. Use a "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar" to set your tiles. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

The same reply for post 11702 applies when attempting to tilie over existing ceramic tile. There are "IF"s, Limitations, and Preperations required. If all "IF"s are addressed, and all preparation instructions are followed you can use "High End" Modified mortars to tile over tile. They are more expensive, have a limited pot life, are rarely mixed correctly, and are usually more difficult to spread and work with. Without a doubt they do stick well, so you just have to decide what's best and easiest for you. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

The odds are that you used a Tile Adhesive which can only dry if there is some penetration into the substrate and evaporation from above and around the tile. Since your tiles were probably Porcelain and/or 12" or larger, and paint is not absorbent by nature, it was the same as putting a lid back on the bucket. Tile Adhesives work fairly well on wall applications as long as the tiles are not much larger that 6", no thicker than 1/4” and the body of the tile is a "Soft Bisque". Now a "Soft Bisque" doesn't mean that you can bite into it, it just means that it's a lower density tile and will absorb water if immersed. “Porcelain Tile” and similar hard bisque tiles are very dense, restrict evaporation, and as a result cannot be installed with Pre-Mixed Tile Adhesives of any kind. “Modified Thin-Set Mortars”, that you mix yourself, are the only suitable bonding material for these tiles. Pre-mixes can be used in “Dry Area” wall applications with smaller tiles, and “Modified Mortars” are best “Anywhere” with any size and kinds of tiles, and is the only option for floors and wet areas. You can go on-line searching for “Underlayments” for tiling over painted ceramic tile and you will get “Dizzy”. I constantly research and review the competition and am also apprehensive when reading the instructions, limitations and disclaimers. I’m a moderator and a manufacturer at the same time on this help site and constantly get questions like yours and because I’ve created an Underlayment System that really works, and works easily without adding height, weight and hard work; I usually recommend it over others. Yours is such a case. TAVY “Thin-Skin” Underlayment for tile, www.tavytools.com for sources. Other options you can consider; Custom’s Red Guard, Protecto Wrap, Schluter Ditra Matting, Laticrete Hydro-Ban, etc. When researching additional products you will usually find limitations when going over a painted surface. “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Absolutely not. Sealers are a "bond breaker" and mortar manufacturers will not guaranty their mortars over concrete sealers. If you have already sealed your floor, you must "scarify the surface or install a "membrane" before tiling. Fortunately, I have such a product that I have talked about in many of the preceeding posts for many months now. TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment. It's only .009 inches "THIN", reasonable, easy to install, and is guaranteed to work by yours truly. Anyone installing my "membrane" can ask me for "Tips and Tricks" anytime. www.tavytools.com for sources.  "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

You must always follow the rules when grouting. No matter how many times you wash a floor after grouting there is always a grout film/haze left behind and this film MUST be polished off with a clean soft cloth within a hour or so after grouting or you will end up with a haze that's very difficult to remove a day later. Go to your local tile store and ask for a Grout Haze Remover. It's an aggressive liquid that should do the job, however, it may take more than one application. If it doesn't come off with two attempts, purchase a "Phosphoric Acid" and dilute it according to the instructions. Non Metalic scrub brushes can help. Always rinse with clean water and towel dry. When all the haze is removed, your tile should look the same as it did before it was installed. If this shine is not enough for you, look in the Sealer Section of your favorite store for a Top Sealer that will work on your tile. A tile that has a normal bright shiny finish cannot be enhanced any further. Take a spare tile to the store and make a "Swatch Test' with a few drops of sealer. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

These one piece pre-fabricated shower pans are relatively new, and like all new innovations, time is the true test. I have personally seen the “TileRedi” shower pans and approve of what I have seen. They have a large variety of shapes and sizes and will even make one to fit your showering needs. Their pans also come with a pre-molded curb which is different than the "Dix" System which requires a "waterproof wrap" on top of the curb which leaves a possible margin of error for the installer. In ALL CASES the final hookup to the shower sub-drain assembly must be done properly or All Work will have been done in vain. Check out www.tileredi.com for information and sources. In the "You Tube" video for “Dix shower pans”, I viewed cement backer boards that were installed all the way down to the bottom of the Dix Pan. All who know me will tell you I personally frown on backer boards that may come in direct contact with a "water table" and prefer to raise them several inches higher than the anticipated tile level of shower pan tiles. This void is filled with cement breaking the “siphon effect”. Cement boards are not waterproof and water can enter the boards, if they are below the “Mud in the Pan”, and “contaminated” (with soap and dead skin) water can siphon up into the boards leaving deposits of bacteria behind, as the water recedes, which can lead to other issues. It’s better to be safe than sorry a few years later.   "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Any bumps or lumps over 1/8" should be chiseled off. Buy a "Cold Chisel" about 1' wide and hammer away. Of course wear eye protection, use a drop cloth and build a barrier out of cardboard, etc. to deflect flying chips. Any bumps or lumps less than 1/8" can be ignored if you install my TAVY Thin-Skin Fabric and then Skim Coat (Plaster) the Fabric with the smooth side of your trowel with the "Modified" Thin-Set Mortar you will be using to set your tiles. Use a minimum 1/4 x 3/8" x 1/4" trowel to install your tiles. On vertical surfaces like this it's always worth the extra effort to Skim-Coat the backs of each tile just before setting.                                               Since you're a first time tile setter it's also worth your while to review posts in the archives, because many of them contain information which could help you understand how to handle your project. Once you have installed my Fabric and let it dry for a couple of hours, you can then lay out your tiles and outline, with a pencil, the first row of tiles to get a feel for the layout.                                                                                                                   I don't know how much space you have or if you are tiling to a wood mantle with two outside legs framing the fireplace. Pick a tile that fits the area best with minimum small cuts. It's also a better look if you can install tiles around the inside of the jambs, that's the mouth of the fireplace, using appropriate tile trim pieces. 3-4 inches will do. Some tiles have a glazed edge that can look pretty good, when using them to wrap an outside corner, cutting down your costs for special trim pieces. If you do this, always put the inside piece behind the front piece on the face of the fireplace to hide the grout joint. It’s not necessary to tile the fireplace “Lintel”, although you should hang the tiles down a bit just to hide the metal.  You may also have to build a “Jig” to hold the tiles spanning the mouth of the fireplace. Two wooden stilts holding up a flat board just under the “Lintel”. If you have any "Soot" anywhere, please remove it first.                                                                                                               Use my TAVY Tile Spacers to space the tiles and hold up each row as you build your wall. If spacers fall off on occasion, just put a small dab of mortar on them, until the tiles have set for a couple of hours, then remove the spacers and wash the mortar off the tiles. Just in case the tiles haven’t completely set put some clean spacers in their place leaving all spacers in overnight. Use a level to keep your tiles plum and wait 24 hours before grouting. You have choices on Underlayments and Spacers but, if you want the best and the easiest to use, you can depend on mine. www.tavytools.com for sources. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

1/4" x 1/4" x1/4" tiles up to 6" tiles; 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" tiles up to 12"; 1/4" x 1/2" x 1/4" or 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" for tiles large than 12". Bend the 1 1/2" nails over just about 1/2" from the floor. If you don't the nails heads can slip through the holes in the lath. Nail pattern is a minimum of every 8" in the field and every 4 inches on the perimeters, seams, and 2" on lath overlaps. Leveling 600 square feet over wire lath, with a pourable leveling liquid, will be a job you would wish you never started. You can spread thin-set over the lath with the backside of your trowel and let it dry and then go back or set as you go, it's really, what works best for you. What do I think? "Jam" the lath, spread the mortar,  set and level tiles, check with a straight edge or 4 foot level, and use my TAVY "Tile Puck" to correct "lippage" as you go. Do not rush your work. At the end of each day, or rest periods, block the front of the last row of tiles with weight in front of a straight edge, so the tiles don't "drift". Leave my TAVY "Tile Spacers" in overnight. That last row of tiles must be as flat and level as you can get it, because the next day is too late. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Why?

It sounds like you have what we call "Sleepers" on the slab and they shouldn't be referred to as "Joists" because "Joists' are always "Suspended. Now "Sleepers" are fine, as long as there isn't any moisture under your slab, in which case "Pressure Treated" 2 x 4"s should have been used. R-11 fiberglass insulation, which is moisture sensitive, should never be installed in direct contact with a slab on or below grade. Was your plywood tongue and groove? If not, there would be weak points where plywood edges, perpendicular to floor's "Sleepers", might bend or sag under concentrated weight. This could also "eventually" cause some grout and tile failure as time passes. "IF" your installer placed "Blocking" under every seam, No problem. "IF" he allowed for expansion around the perimeter, No problem. "IF" he buttered the backs of every tile before installation, No problem. "IF" he used the correct size notched trowel, No problem (minimum 1/4"x 3/8" x 1/4"). If all answers are yes, turn off the heat and save money. If some of my "negative" points are true, you would just have to "cross your fingers" because, the temperature won't enter into the equation, and it won't matter if there's heat in your patio or not. Don't mean to alarm you, but you asked the question and asked for an opinion. In "creative" tile installations, the "Rules" are always challenged and unfortunately the "Rules" usually prevail. So, Always Ask An Expert in any Trade, When In Doubt. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

The odds are very probable that you had too much water in you grout mix. These "Divots" are caused by air trapped that escapes thru the path of least resistance, which in this case is a "Week" mixture of grout. You shouldn't be able to remove grout with your finger nail or any nail, for that matter. A special grout removal saw available at most home improvemnent centers may help you unless the grout joints are to small for the tool. If you have an old fashioned beer can opener, it can be used to scrape with until it gets dull, which is rather quickly, since this is not what it was designed for, but it can be resharpened. Care should be taken when using any tool or device so a tile or tiles are not chipped during the removal process. In order to fill/grout any joints that you scrape, the depth of the "Cavity" should be at least 1/8" because grout isn't designed to stick to itself, it can only fill a void that's deep enough. You would also have to make the grout stiffer, more like "peanut butter". Let it stay 10 or 15 minutes or a little longer if necessary, before washing off excess with a "Grout Sponge" that isn't "dripping wet". You should squeeze out + - 80% of the water and use diagonal strokes while washing. Let grout film dry to a haze, about 20-30 minutes and "polish" off the film with a soft cloth. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy Spacerman                                                                                                                                             And "Yes" you should seal the grout. But, be aware that sealers only give you a "Window of Opportunity" in which to clean before the stain becomes permanent.

http://www.tilesolutions.com.au/faqs/frequently-asked-questions/what-is-the-difference-between-standard-ceramic-tiles-and-porcelain-tiles

What is the difference between a Ceramic Tile and a Porcelain Tile?

Ceramic is a generic term that applies to tiles that are made from red clay base and a glaze that is then kiln fired. Not all ceramic tiles are equal in quality or performance or artistic design. Water absorption can be up to 10%, which limits the applications for Ceramic, they cannot be immersed in water or subject to freezing or frosts. Ceramics tend to be lower in strength than porcelain tiles.

A porcelain tile is defined by its lower water absorption typically .5% The clay is a better quality, usually white and the tile is fired at a higher temperature typically 1200 degrees C. As red clays are becoming more scarce, more porcelain tiles are produced. Tile Clearance Centre has a full range of both Ceramic and Porcelain tiles

How can I tell if a tile is Ceramic or Porcelain?

If it's red it's probably ceramic. If it's white underneath it may be porcelain or ceramic. An easy test is to put a small amount of water on the back of the tile, if it is absorbed quickly then it's probably ceramic, if the water stays in a puddle on the surface, it's porcelain. Remember an absorbent tile should only be used for interior flooring and walls and not in an immersion or permanently wet, or frost prone situation.

DalTile Stores in Canada

They do make a 6” quarry tile, and should have tumbled marble as well. Tell them about your project and they may even donate the tile/marble.

CALGARY #223 #11 3201 OGDEN RD S.E. CALGARY, AB T2G 4N4 403-255-2566 403-255-3143 fax calgary.ssc223@daltile.com EDMONTON - #367 11117-184TH STREET, NW EDMONTON, AB T5S 2L6 780-489-9490 780-489-9492 fax edmonton.ssc367@daltile.com VANCOUVER #321 2770 BENTALL STREET VANCOUVER, BC V5M 4H4 604-251-8995 604-251-3987 fax vancouver.ssc321@daltile.com CONCORD #314 40 GRANITERIDGE ROAD CONCORD, ON L4K5M8 905-738-2099 905-850-4398 fax toronto.ssc314@daltile.com

Although I’ve installed my share of beautiful “Murals”, I’m the first to admit I know nothing about the success rate of painting and glazing or painting and re-glazing Frost Proof Ceramic Tiles. A good friend of mine, Mike King of “Michael King Designs”, Oceanside California, 760-433-1670 has been in the Ceramic Tile Mural business, creating amazing original works of art for over 30 years. I phoned him today and he was somewhat skeptical about your success. This wonderful, “Children Can Give Back” project, even if it’s “not for pay”, deserves more than a, “maybe it might work”.  I usually don’t like leaving any question hanging, but the best I can do at this point is give you some referrals for sources of materials. I’m also questioning your desire to tile over “Frost Proof” tiles. Since each tile will be hanging on a tree or post it’s not important that they be waterproof/frost proof. Glaze the front and back and make them completely original by making the ceramic “Bisque” as well. What I would like to see is a less than perfect molds so the tiles look “HAND MADE”.

http://www.duncanpaintstore.com/products.htm

http://www.creativeglazes.com/mold-links.htm

I just had a thought that you might experiment with if you have the time. 4” x 4” or 6” x 6” “Tumbled” White Carrara Marble is readily available, is a natural stone that comes from a mountain, is naturally tough, and in its tumbled state has a matt finish that would be easy to paint over. I’m not positive tonight because it’s 10 PM here in Florida, but I think it could withstand the heat of a kiln and might be worth looking into. “I think” is not a phrase I tolerate, so I will confirm this fact tomorrow, and if it’s not possible, I will retract the suggestion. However on the same note, we have clear Epoxy Finishes for tile that could be used for a protective finish over the tumbled marble to seal and protect the children’s “Artwork”. “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Tiling directly over "lath" is a practice in some parts of the country, however, it's not considered a "Mud Job" by any means, because a thin layer of wire lath and some thin-set over it isn't a structural improvement and only becomes a suitable surface to tile over. Use the backside of your trowel to force thin-set mortar into all the spaces/pockets in the lath before spreading the generous mortar bed you will be tiling over. Make certain that you overlap lath sections a "minimum" 2 inches and bend the, minimum length, Galvanized 1 1/2" roofing nails over before they bottom out. Use the right trowel!!! to set your tile, and backbutter Porcelain Tiles. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Schluter's shower kit? Does it include “Ditra” Matting for the walls? Or is it just for the shower pan? Or is it a pre-finished molded shower pan, and you’re doing just the walls? If it’s a “Full Kit”, walls and pan, it’s a mute point unless, there is some carelessness on your part installing the “fabric” on the walls, pan and curb, and water or even a little moisture gets behind the matting, which could ultimately destroys the dry wall and anything attached to it. The "Schluter’s System" makes sense only if the installer is “bright enough” to follow their directions to a “T”. If you were a professional I would be able to "connect with you" a little easier but, as a “DIY” I must stress some fine points that you should be aware of. “IF” the shower valve or its integral parts ever leak or water manages to get behind the valve cover and work its way into the dry wall, the fixture wall could/would be short lived. To be forewarned is “Hindsight” so to be on the safe side I would recommend changing the fixture wall to 1/2” backerboard, full width and at least to a full sheet’s height of 5’. Leave 1/8” space between it and the dry wall; fill the joint with thin-set, tape the joint with “Alkali Resistant Tape, and then coat the joint again with thin-set. It’s imperative that you thoroughly understand the Schluter Procedure or you will “blow a lot of time and money”. They have an installation video available, which you should watch several times.  Schluter is a reputable company with lots of resources and claim they have sold many”Ditra” Shower Systems. They also state that their system “Works” very well, but they do not mention if there are or aren’t any job failures/claims. I feel there are too many “Loop Holes”, and because of that I, “honestly” and “personally”, can only give there system a “7” on a scale of “1 to 10”. An additional concern, if you live in a cold climate or a climate with 4 seasons, is the distinct possibility of (moisture) condensation buildup on the backside of the Dry Wall. This possibility is 100% predictable in very cold weather while taking a “Long Hot Shower”, if the shower has one or two of its walls, as in a “Neo-Angle” shower, facing the exterior walls of a home. The integrity of the “Dry Wall/Gypsum Board” could, and most likely would, be compromised.  “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Now I have to add "Feinman" to my group of handles. If you're a customer of "TAVY" I may just lend you mine because, I live in Plant City, a stones throw from you. Of course you have to also be responsible and treat my "Feinman" Tool with respect. Tell me about your project. Armen Tavy aka "Lenderman". Cell # 860-559-8469

Thank you for even mentioning my TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment, and of course, it's the only way to go! There is absolutely no other product, that under the same conditions, could be as serving to you, and at the lowest cost. If your second layer is intact, why would you want to remove it? Guaranteed you will lift some of the asbestos tiles as well and then you will "Open Up Pandoras Box". If some sections  of sheet goods are loose, cut a flap/s, that's a 3 sided section, and glue it back down with my 007 Glue. Even multiple "Cuts" in the sheet goods won't matter, and you will save yourself a lot of work as well. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka "Spacerman", "Thin-Skinman", and "Puckman", but my wife of 56 years calls me "Oldman". Shirley, I don't really care what anybody calls me because, I just love this forum, I call "TAVYLAND".

Only if you were a "Horse Doctor". Only kidding, but it would be nice of you told me what the problem was that makes you thing your solution is the right way to go, so be kind, and help me help you. All we want are the Facts Captain. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

If your project was indoors and only for viewing, it would not be a problem. However, outdoors is another “can of peas”.  1/4” Hardi Board is recommended for floors and not vertical installations where it would be subjected to all kinds of stresses. Did you go over studs or Plywood? Do you live in a mild, cold or hot climate? GALVANIZED Wire certainly wood help stiffen the “CBU”, but then you could have used 1/2” Hardi Board and not had to worry as much. To make matters worse, outdoor tile applications over ANY KIND of wood structures are frowned on unless every precaution was taken to keep the wood dry and termite free. If you used exterior grade plywood underneath the CBU, it won’t work either because the words “exterior grade” only refers to the glue that holds the multiple plies together. Tiling over CBU installed over “Marine Plywood” although better, is still frowned on because of the negative aspects of the wood involved in building the frame of the BBQ. Avoiding any kind of wood and Building the BBQ out of Cinder Block and then tiling over the block would have made better sense. Exterior tiling projects are always better if Mortars that require a “Latex Liquid Additive” instead of water are used to install tile or, in your case, Slate Tiles. The backs of every tile should be "Skim Coated" just before installation and a minimum 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" trowel should be used to spread the mortar. If you want to proud of your BBQ and have your project last more than a couple of years, please re-think your design.                  “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Art, this is another one of those multiple "IF" questions. Me first then you. Here are 10 "IF"s. Tell me "IF" you live in Alaska or North Carolina (not literally)? "IF" your subloor is resting on at least 2 x 10" joists? "IF" you used two layers of Plywood over the joists before installing CBU? "IF" you followed all the "Rules" when installing the CBU? "IF" you used "Latex Modified Mortar" (Which you must have used) to install your "Frostproof" Tiles. "IF" you let the room and sub-flooring materials and all tile and related products reach an ambient temperature no less than 65 degrees before you installed them, "IF" you installed in cooler tempertures and allowed for expansion during hot and humid months? "IF" all the answers are positive then It shouldn't make a difference. Cold, shrinks, heat and humidity expands, "IF" you allowed for both, no problem. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman                      

My first guess would be that the nose of a bull is so large and round that it was the best way to describe this unique product. The adage, "One picture is worth a thousand words" would apply if this is true. Since you and your friends have raised this question I will do my best to get an answer because I’m just as curious now. Let’s see if our readers can help. Logic, and “thought association”  was the norm in the “Old Days” and continues even today. For instance a kitchen countertop on one side or either side of a sink was called a “Drainboard” because it was pitched to allow water from washed dishes and probably splashing from bathing small children to drain back into the sink. Maybe an adult or two even tried it, but not together. “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

 I will except my explanation and back it up with a 1913 dictionary explanation of the word. It unfortunately doesn't appear in my hugh 1,149 page Lexicon Edition 1987. Should I get up and dance now? We can add a few more words that are not in the dictionary like: underlayment, lippage, backerboard, and of course a "tileman". Always love a Challenge, Armen Tavy

Bull's´-nose`

n.

1.

(Arch.) An external angle when obtuse or rounded.

Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary, published 1913 by C. & G. Merriam Co.

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I would simply install an Oak Stair Nosing on the Landing so the riser of the first step is recessed under it. The "Overlap" stock of these Oak Stair Noseings come in various thicknesses to accomodate different floor coverings. I believe they are still available from 1/4" to 3/4". The other option is a stair noseing made for tile installations manufactured by a company called "Schluter". www.schluter.com "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman